![]() ![]() Tube-style belay devices like the ATC control the speed of the rope by creating friction and providing an edge that a belayer uses to leverage the rope. Inspired by older designs, the ATC improved on other devices with lighter weight, stronger materials, a plastic-covered keeper cable, and more ergonomic tube depths and widths. Tube-style devices became popular because they functioned better, dissipated heat, were small, lightweight, and wore evenly over time.įinally, in the 1990s, the North American climbing manufacturer Black Diamond came out with a more modern belay device–the air traffic controller ( 4). In time, slotted plate devices like the Sticht gave way to the tubular device, also known as tubers ( 3). Later, the German climbing manufacturer Edelrid came up with the Bankl, which was directly inspired by the original slotted plate design. In the 1970s, the first patented belay device was the Sticht Plate ( 2), named after Fritz Sticht. The climbing rope is threaded into one or both of the tubes of the belay device. Tube-style belay devices, also known as manual or tubular belay devices, consist of one or two tubes or elongated holes. The ATC by Black Diamond is a contemporary iteration of older tube-style belay devices. Similarly, in the climbing context, the belayer (and the belay device) are responsible for the climber’s safe fall. The airport’s air traffic controller controls the aircraft’s safe landing. One of the climbing market’s most famous and trusted belay devices is the Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller or ATC.īlack Diamond’s most tried and true belay device was named the ATC to facetiously draw the connection between a falling climber and an aircraft trying to land at the airport. This progression in the sport of climbing, of trying harder and feeling okay to fall, has its roots implanted in creating one of the most reliable belay devices known to the sport– the Black Diamond ATC ( 1). As a result, most climber falls are no longer catastrophic– so long as the belayer does their job, of course.īecause belaying is safer and falling while climbing has become normalized, climbers can push themselves into more challenging and more complicated terrain. The sport of climbing has evolved because belaying techniques and gear have become much safer. Keep reading to learn about the most iconic belay device– the Black Diamond ATC. The tube-style device, assisted braking devices, and other belay devices have changed the face of what it means to belay. ![]() Climbing and belaying have become much safer, mostly thanks to modern belay devices. This is especially true for climbing equipment, most notably – belay devices.īack in the day, the proper belay technique was as simple as wrapping one rope around your waist (and maybe shoulders) to give a “hip-belay.” Unfortunately, belaying was so insecure that the safety guidelines for climbers were not to fall. Advantages and Drawbacks of ATC Belay DevicesĬlimbing has come a long way since its old-school origins.It is good enough to go unnoticed, which is actually high praise. There isn't much more to say except for the fact that the device works as advertised, with no obvious faults to speak of. But it is certainly nice to have should the need arise. In any case, the friction ridges still provide quite a bit of friction to the point that I prefer rappelling without using them in normal conditions. Whereas the ATC-XP has been said to have ~3 times the friction of the plain ATC, the ATC-Guide is said to have ~2 times the friction. It has been noted that user feedback for the ATC-XP convinced Black Diamond to tone-down the friction ridges for the ATC-Guide. This is applicable mostly for canyoneering, where single-stranded rappels on wet and thin (9mm or less) rope necessitates that level of friction. Note that all normal belay attention/precautions apply, but just that there is now a backup to normal belay.Ģ) The additional loops of aluminum functions as an effective heat sink, allowing this device to run cooler than comparable tube-style devices.ģ) The additional loop of aluminum is helpful for setting up a Z-rig rappel, which greatly increases friction. What this addition achieves is threefold:ġ) For belaying a second, the ATC-Guide can now be set-up to brake automatically, much like the Petzl Reverso/Reversino. What makes the ATC-Guide unique is the addition of two loops of aluminum. In this respect it is very much like its predecessor, the BD ATC-XP, and innumerable other similar devices. The BD ATC-Guide is a tube-style belay/rappel device with friction ridges. ![]()
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